The Perris Monte Carlo collection of extracts has always had two drawbacks – price and the impossibility to limit one or two fragrances. Everybody needs them. Extracts, which is a rare case for me, I want to mix. To supplement the earthy gloomy patchouli with honey ylang, and faecal and a little pharmacy oud with sweet strawberry rose. My favorite mix: two drops of Rose de Taif on the back of the head, a drop of Ylang Nosy be on the left shoulder, a drop of Santal du Pacifique on the right. However, they are also good as standalone compositions.
Patchouli Nosy Be is the shiver of the earth. A layer of grated bitter chocolate with red hot pepper, a layer of raisins impregnated with cognac, under it a layer of hard turf and another meter deep in the depth of the black soil, permeated with silver threads of mushrooms, passages of worms and moles. The kingdom of the invisible and unseen.
- Patchouli Nosy Be, Perris Monte Carlo, 2015
- Patchouli, pepper, cocoa, labdanum, vanilla, cedar, sandal.
Rose de Taif – the smell of roses taken from roses and adapted by man for his own pleasure. Rose de Taif smells of strawberry and pink onion served with rose petals tea in a fragrant rose garden, where the rose is everywhere and in all possible aggregate states. One of the favorite roses. Rides with me on all journeys.
- Rose de Taif, Perris Monte Carlo, 2015
- Lemon, nutmeg, geranium, Thai rose, Damascus rose, musk.
Oud Imperial – the illusion of oak collected from the sea mist, the evaporation of tropical swamps, foliage and the shadow of elephant ass, which disappears into the jungle. The smell is salty and dirty, more like not a natural ood, but a dense mixture of patchouli, ambergris and Tonkin musk. Especially spicy sounds in the mix with Patchouli Nosy Be.
- Oud Imperial, Perris Monte Carlo, 2015
- Jasmine, caraway, incense, patchouli, saffron, sandal, cedar, vetiver, labdanum, oud.
Ylang Ylang Nosy be is the star of the collection. Surprisingly soft and relaxed. You expect to hear a bright white-floral “ainane”, and get amber sunny color fragrant oil for some ritual Indian lapping. And it is difficult to say what is more in it, honey peaches, vanilla cream or flowers.
- Ylang Ylang Nosy be, , Perris Monte Carlo, 2015
- Ylang, lemon, grapefruit, cardamom, jasmine, fluerdorange, rose, amber, labdanum, vetiver, cedar, vanilla.
Santal du Pacifique – is a fragrance blend, smelling of iris root, a bit of pine needles and light fragrant wood bars, from which then adjusted cup holders or pinocchio. I do not perceive it as independent. Only as a complement to flower extracts of Perris Monte Carlo.
- Santal du Pacifique, Perris Monte Carlo, 2016
- Carrot, orchid, violet, sandal, wood, musk.
Absolue d’Osmanthe is a wild forest monster with shreds of wool and all in turnips, sleeping under an osmanthus bush. It was lulled by the warmth of the earth and the light apricot-soap aroma of delicate yellowish flowers. More like leather and animal, rather than floral fragrance. Very insidious in the warmth and the only one that does not mix with anything in the collection.
- Absolue d’Osmanthe, Perris Monte Carlo, 2016
- Osmanthus, jasmine, sandal, rose, amber, wood, vanilla, labdanum, Tolhuan balsam.
Gem Van Cleef&Arpels
If I suddenly thought to pick up perfume for my favorite kitsch jewelry in the style of the series “Dynasty”, it would certainly be Gem Van Cleef & Arpels. In the perfumery embodiment of the dragon gold and shining stones with a fist – typical for the 80s of last century excess white-flower chypre. The epithet “rich” with all its possible meanings is really suitable for such and only such spirits.
It is rich, but avaricious. Gem poisons you with all the intoxicating animal poison that is in ylang and tuberose, drunk with the sweetness of plum wine and peach preserves, stunned with burning spices and excited by the proximity of some cold mysterious darkness that is hiding at the bottom of it. But it remains impenetrable, like a crystal. Not for a second is it made closer and closer. Gem is worn as a jewel and removed as a jewel, even without being particularly warm.
Gem was released in 1987 at the height of the fashion for such fragrances, and already in the 90’s everything was flooded with watermelon and ozone freshness. Could he have survived? No, he couldn’t.
Lorga Parfums
The young French brand Lorga Parfums writes about itself very sparingly: inspired by precious ingredients, spirits we love since childhood, chose the best for you.
By the choice of those fragrances and designs we can assume the eastern roots of the authors: a bottle of heavy, polished glass, a heavy gold cap with a schematic image of silkworm – boogers, capable of many miles of smelling a love call. Blotters, laid out on the table, smell smoke and balsamic.
Rose dEncens Lorga Parfums is in my bottle because I was counting on 65 milliliters of traditional pink nectar, and got a sweet cyanide labdanum and a spicy spicy clove. At the very beginning, you can still hear the raspberry juice, and after the manifesto of spices bloody peony and rose, but the main thing here is still not flowers. Rose dEncens is resins and incense in all its power and in all the eastern splendor.
- Rose d`Encens, Lorga Parfums, 2019
- Alice Dattee
- Bergamot, absolute rose, incense, labdanum, thin beans, vanilla.
In general, it seemed to me that Lorga Parfums is not what it seems. The fresh white-flowered Musc Palawan smells not like musk, but carefree summer, sea, beach, ripe pineapple, mango and yellow plums. Maiden and laughable Musc Palawan by the final becomes sweeter and slightly powdered with light marshmallow powder, but still remains as light.
- Musc Palawan, Lorga Parfums, 2019
- Alice Dattee
- Bergamot, lime, sea notes, ylang, vanilla, honey, white musk.
Among colleagues writing about perfumery, the most popular, perhaps, is Ambre Platine. It reminded me of the great Must Cartier in perfume, with its tartar of pine needles, oily earth, ganache and bitter chocolate. Ambre Platine is more decorative and gourmet. The French dessert is a little more cooked with nuts, rum and spices than usual, and the resin and earth quickly fall into the background and somewhere completely lost in the fragrant and sweet pairs.
- Ambre Platine, Lorga Parfums, 2019
- Sarah Burri
- Bergamot, tangerine, almonds, vanilla, pink berries, cinnamon, vanilla, white musk, ambergris, caramel.
Cuir Affiné is the residual sweetness of tobacco smoke, perfume and strong alcohol, absorbed in the dark wood of the bar and squeaky skin of sofas. This is the smell of the club in the morning after the party, when people have already drank everything, smoked, said everything to each other, and the sunrise sun drove them home.
- Cuir Affiné, Lorga Parfums, 2019.
- Camille Leguay
- Bergamot, lime, tuberose, milk notes, hazelnut, leather, tobacco.
In the Oud Yssée I found those 65 milliliters of pink nectar that I didn’t get in the Rose d`Encens, but in addition to a rose with saffron, the cream, coffee and vanilla syrup were splashed here with a generous hand and it turned out a little sweeter than I like. The Oud Yssée Oud itself is very delicate and sounds like the scent of a big city (Paris), where an oriental beauty walks with a glass of caramel latte.